Edward Enninful on curating Robert Mapplethorpe The former editor-in-chief of British Vogue turns his attention from fashion to the world of art

By Emie Diamond

The former editor-in-chief of British Vogue has put on a Robert Mapplethorpe show at Thaddaeus Ropac, Paris, in his first role as curator

Edward Enninful is one of the great minds of our time. With an insatiable thirst for knowledge and a penchant for asking “why?”, creativity perpetually flows through his veins. He finds the utmost fulfilment when knee-deep in research, immersing himself in various forms of culture, especially art. Enninful seeks to understand “the mechanics of things” and studies “the masters and their brush strokes”, among other subjects. While his career has transported him to the far corners of the globe for fashion, he is admittedly “as excited about going to galleries as I am about seeing the [designer] shows”. Art is crucial to his quality of life, for it allows him to pause and see the world in a different way. Thus, it is apropos that for Enninful’s next chapter, he turns his creative eye toward the art world.

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It is fitting that, after years of orchestrating editorial shoots, Enninful has curated a Robert Mapplethorpe photography exhibition for Thaddaeus Ropac in Paris. True to his nature, Enninful meticulously studied over 4,000 images by the artist. He set out to illuminate a different side of Mapplethorpe’s work by evoking “some tension”. As a result, he is presenting the artist’s photography either in harmony or juxtaposition. How does he determine when the pairings are perfect? There’s a moment, he says, when he gets a head rush and a sense of euphoria, signalling that a presentation feels right. With his infectious enthusiasm, Enninful adds, “It’s amazing to be in a world I’ve admired for so long. The world I’ve been a part of, as a participant in a way. It’s a dream come true, really.” He also hints at forthcoming collaborations with museums.

Edward Enninful has led a bold, colourful life, always asking himself, “How can I bring something to the system that makes people question what they know?” Having reshaped the narrative in fashion, his shift to the art realm is met with great anticipation. Ultimately, Enninful’s unique fusion of punk spirit and an unyielding commitment to nurturing beauty marks him as one of the foremost innovators of our era.

Robert Mapplethorpe curated by Edward Enninful is at Thaddaeus Ropac gallery in Paris Marais until 6 April